The Complete Guide to Buying a Park Home

A park home is a factory-built single-storey residence sited on a pitch within a licensed residential park. It is built to BS 3632 residential standard, connected to mains services, and lived in all year round — but legally it is not a house. You own the home itself and rent the pitch it stands on from the park operator under an agreement governed by the Mobile Homes Act 1983 (as amended).

That distinction shapes everything else in this guide: the way the home is valued, the paperwork you sign, the survey you should commission and the commission you will pay when you eventually sell.

The park matters as much as the home standing on it. Confirm the site licence permits year-round residential occupation — holiday licences do not, and a home on a holiday park cannot be your permanent address. Ask to see the licence and the site rules in writing.

Visit at different times of day, speak to existing residents, and look at how the park is maintained: roads, drainage, lighting, trees, communal areas and boundary fencing. A well-run park protects the resale value of every home on it; a neglected one drags values down regardless of how good an individual home looks.

Check any age restrictions (many residential parks are 50+), pet rules, parking, subletting rules and whether the park operator also sells homes — which can affect how impartial the advice you receive on site really is.

The pitch fee (often called the site fee) is the monthly amount you pay to keep your home on its plot. It is reviewed annually on the review date set out in your written statement, and increases are governed by statutory rules — the operator must give notice and justify the change.

Beyond the pitch fee, budget for council tax, gas, electricity and water (sometimes metered and recharged through the park), buildings and contents insurance for a park home specifically, and ongoing maintenance such as respraying or recoating the exterior, roof upkeep and chassis treatment.

Ask for the last three years of pitch fee reviews. A steady, well-explained history is a good sign; large unexplained jumps are worth questioning before you commit.

The written statement is the core legal document between you and the park operator. It sets out the pitch fee, the review date, the services provided, the responsibilities of each side and the terms that apply on resale. You are entitled to receive it at least 28 days before the agreement is made.

Read it alongside the site rules, which cover day-to-day matters such as parking, pets, decking, sheds, external alterations and noise. If something you plan to do — install decking, add a shed, keep a dog, let a family member stay long term — is restricted, you need to know now rather than after completion.

The expensive faults in a park home are rarely visible on a viewing. Chassis corrosion, an unlevel or sinking base, failed roof coverings, tired or missing insulation, damp around windows and doors, and ageing gas or electrical installations are the items that turn into four- and five-figure bills.

New-looking cladding and a freshly decorated interior tell you nothing about the age or condition of the structure underneath. A twenty-year-old home can look almost new after a refurbishment, so treat the age of the shell and the age of the finishes as two separate questions.

There is no mortgage valuation and no standard homebuyer report for park homes, so nobody carries out this check on your behalf unless you commission it. An independent park home survey inspects the chassis, base, cladding, roof, insulation, damp, ventilation and services, and puts the findings in writing with photographs.

Use a surveyor who is independent of the park, the seller and the agent, and who inspects park homes specifically rather than houses with a park home checklist attached. Ask what the inspection covers, how long it takes on site, and what you receive afterwards.

With Park Home Passport, the inspection produces a structured, evidence-based report where every rating is backed by dated observations and photographs. It becomes a digital record you can share securely with a reference and access code — and when you come to sell, that same record shows your buyer an independent history rather than starting from scratch.

Before you commit, ask for the written statement, the current gas safety certificate, the electrical installation condition report, any manufacturer warranty still in force, and evidence of the home's make, model and year of manufacture.

Also confirm who owns and maintains the base the home sits on, whether any alterations (porches, decking, extensions) were approved by the park, and whether there are outstanding works or disputes. Keeping all of this together in one place — as a passport does — stops documents going missing between viewing and completion.

Asking prices on parks are often set by the seller or the operator with no independent evidence behind them. A documented condition report gives you a factual basis for negotiation — or the confidence to pay the asking price knowing what you are getting.

Remember that park homes are generally bought for lifestyle rather than capital growth. Condition, age and park quality drive value, and a poorly maintained home can lose value quickly.

Residential park home sales follow the Mobile Homes Act process rather than a conventional conveyance. Confirm early who prepares the assignment paperwork, how the pitch fee transfers, what deposit is required and on what terms it is refundable.

Note that on resale the park owner is entitled to a commission of up to 10% of the sale price. That applies when you sell, so factor it into what the home is worth to you today.

Skipping the survey because the home looks new. Relying on verbal assurances from the seller or the park rather than written evidence. Not reading the written statement before paying a deposit. Ignoring the 10% resale commission. Assuming a park home will appreciate like a house. Paying a deposit before due diligence is complete — deposits are far easier to place than to recover.

Every one of these is avoidable with the right information before you commit, which is exactly what an independent record is for.